JULY 12: Pueblo, Colo. to Cotopaxi, Colo., 80 miles via Colorado Routes 96 and 69 and Custer and Fremont County Route 1-A. Average speed for today 12.7 mph. Total trip mileage to date 2,347. Average miles per day since June 1, 55.9.

The difference between today and the past week of stultifying, humid flatlands in . Kansas and eastern Colorado was astounding and dramatic. Hills, trees, mountains, grades, cool temperatures, curves, signs warning of big horn sheep, clear rivers, alpine meadows and more unfolded.

Yeah, we paid a price.  Serious climbing began three miles outside of Pueblo and by 1:30 p.m. we were atop the 9,000-foot Hardscrabble Grade. It didn’t matter that the last two miles of the climb were incredibly steep.

First, Randy – who spent the morning and early afternoon playing a round of golf near Florence, Colo. – had our gear. And second, we were overwhelmed by the spectacular scenery. 

“It’s like we went from Sucksville to Awesometown in  a day,” said Ben.

At the top of  the pass was  series of mountain meadows and gentle grades. Then, 1,000 feet lower, we hit Silver Cliff  and Pizza Madness, one of the best pizza joints we’ve encountered.

Had a long, downhill slide after lunch. Randy met us outside Hillside, Colo., and escorted us to our destination. In Cotopaxi he had gotten us a cabin at a campground along the Arkansas River. No cell, no Internet,  no TV, but a rushing river outside the screen do

Dinner was at Barry's Den,  where a Monterey chicken sandwich with avocado was on the menu. We were finally getting out of the iceberg lettuce land of the Midwest.

Tomorrow’s big: Ahead of us is the 11,000-foot Monarch Pass, which will be the highest elevation on our cross-country trip.